Guide To Bukittinggi, West Sumatra’s Hidden Gem

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Although being the third largest city in West Sumatra, Bukittinggi is a true hidden gem that offers a wealth of things to do and places to explore.

I didn’t think there were any more “hidden gems” left in this world, or that there were any places left to explore, but Bukittinggi still remains a destination less trodden.

Nestled on a high hill overlooking the Minangkabau Highlands and active volcanoes, Bukittinggi boasts a relaxed and tranquil atmosphere, and is clouded in history and Indonesian heritage.

Aeiral view of Bukittinggi

As you walk around the streets, you’ll be mesmerized by the traditional houses built in classic minangkabau architecture, and your senses come alive by the sounds of locals laughing and battering over fresh fruits and vegetables to trade in the town centre.

If you’re thinking of making a stop by the town of Bukittinggi but not sure what it’s all about or what there is to do there, this guide will tell you everything you need to know.

About Bukittinggi, Sumatra

View of the Bukittinggi town in Sumatra, Indonesia
View of the Bukittinggi town in Sumatra, Indonesia

Located on the Indonesian Island of Sumatra, Bukittinggi is a bustling market town in the Agam Valley in the province of West Sumatra, 90km from the capital of the region, Padang.

The closest airport is Minangkabau International Airport, 2 hr 30 minute drive away (85.3 km).

A unique thing about Bukittinggi is its climate. With its elevation of over 900 meters, it boasts a cool climate that reaches around 16°C-25°C, offering a refreshing break from the scorching Indonesian heat.

It’s known for its lush hillside landscapes and traditional architecture.

Two active volcanoes, Mount Marapi and Mount Singgalang, surround the city and offer great opportunities for hiking and outdoor activities.

Although being the third largest city in West Sumatra, it’s a small city with a town-like feel.

The city was once the regency seat of Indonesia until 1998, and was also the former capital of Indonesia  during the Emergency Government of the Republic of Indonesia (PDRI), back when it was called Fort de Kock.

At that time, the city was colonised by the Dutch East Indies and the Japanese, and remnants of colonial times can still be found in the architecture and way of life here.

Things to Do in Bukittinggi

1. Jungle Trek Bukittinggi to Lake Maninjau

Terrace rice fields near Lake Maninjau.
Terrace rice fields near Lake Maninjau our trekking destination

My two girlfriends and I left early one morning for a two day jungle trek from Bukittinggi to Lake Maninjau where we would end up staying for close to a week.

Lake Maninjau is a large crater lake bordered by several small villages.

It’s a great place to soak up the slow rural life recovering from the hike with plenty of swims, delicious home cooked meals from our guesthouse and games of shithead.

Our Experience Hiking from Bukittinggi to Lake Maninjau

My guide, Arlen, told stories of exploration as we talked. The inspiration I gained from listening to his exploration stories came at the beginning of my overseas travelling life in 1997, during my first trip abroad in Indonesia.

It is incredible how even though it was 14 years ago, I still remember Arlen and my time with him almost as if it were yesterday.

There are some people you meet on your travels who will have that lasting impact upon you, and the passing of the years will never fade away the memories they helped you to create.

indonesia guide eating pineapple in jungle
Our guide pretending to be a tiger during lunch

The trek took us through the 15km Sianok Canyon, a popular attraction just outside Bukittinggi.

Sheer 100-120 meter cliffs face each across the Sianok River, which meanders lazily along the 15km canyon banked by lush green foliage.

The scenery was spectacular and we had it all to ourselves.

After about an hour lunch break, we packed up our supplies and started our trek again. Just around the corner from where we sat was a small river we now had to cross.

Suddenly, Arlen put up his hand to signal us to be quiet and take a step back. His urgency did not invite me to question, only to do.

He ran forward, bent down and put his hand over a spot on the sandy banks.

“Been gone for about an hour.” he stated quickly and breathed. “It is okay.”

“What has been gone?”

We moved forward to where he was standing and looked down. There was clearly imprinted in the sand was the gigantic paw print of a tiger.

“A tiger.” he said “was here about an hour ago, drinking from this river.”

Sumatran tiger at Australia Zoo, Queensland, Australia
So glad we did not meet the tiger in person

He nodded, confirming what we were all thinking… if we didn’t stop for lunch.

“How do you know it was an hour?”

“I can feel the heat rising off the paw print. It lets me know it was about that time. Here feel it.”

I was almost afraid to put my hand over it in case it magically conjured the tiger up out of the bushes. Sure enough, a warm heat radiated out from it.

“The only thing is I don’t know where it has gone. Hopefully that way,” he said pointing off into the opposite direction to where we were headed.

I hoped so as well, but wasn’t so sure as that way went through the clearing where we sat. Surely we would have seen it.

Sianok Canyon. Bukittinggi. Sumatra island. Indonesia.
Sianok Canyon – our lunch spot was somewhere down there!

The walk, which had this morning been quite calm and gentle, now turned strenuous along the steep and rocky, muddy paths.

I was beyond relieved when we reached the top of the mountain and entered into farmlands and Arlen suggested we jump in the back of the passing pick up truck and catch a ride the rest of the way.

Whatever you say dear explorer friend.

The next morning, feeling slightly refreshed, we made our way mostly downhill to our guesthouse on the Lake.

The panoramic view on Lake Maninjau along the way was spectacular.

Although a difficult trek, it was a memorable one, and just one of the experiences on my first trip abroad that pulled me in to constantly seek a life filled with adventure and inspirational people that touched and evolved my spirit.

2. Take a Trip to The Mandeh Islands

Our adventures with Arlen did not end there in the Sumatran jungle. We were convinced once again to take another exploratory trip, this time to nearby remote islands perfect for snorkelling and swimming.

The Mandeh Islands, in the southwest of the province facing the Indian Ocean, are located not too far from its capital city, Padang.

There are a five hour journey from Bukittinggi. They are somewhat of a hidden gem, but are quickly becoming known as the Raja Ampat of West Sumatra.

The Mandeh archipelago has a number of islands some of which are Tarajun, Setan Kecil, Sironjong Besar and Sironjong Kecil, Pulau Merak and the Cubadak Island.

These were true deserted islands that we had all to ourselves. We went back to primitive basics: no running water, electricity or even a bed to sleep in.

Arlen caught fish for our dinner, while we swam around exploring the delightful and abundant underwater world. We ate with our hands and washed up with ocean water.

Our evening was spent playing charades and shithead, telling stories, and singing more songs around the campfire, where we eventually lay our heads down to sleep.

3. Shop at Traditional Tourist Markets, Pasar Bawah, Pasar Aur Kuning, Pasar Atas

Bukittinggi is a well-known market town with several daily markets taking place across the center.

The most famous is Pasar Atas, which is a large daily market where you can buy fruit and vegetables, traditional snacks, second-hand clothing and handicrafts.

Pasar Bawah, which is not too far from Pasar Atlas, is a great place to find souvenirs, traditional food, handicrafts, and textiles.

Just behind Pasar Bawak is the town’s old Chinatown where you can get herbal teas and Chinese medicine.

These markets are called “tourist markets” but they are also widely used by local people as well.

4. Check out the Clock Tower (Jam Gadang)

Clock Tower (Jam Gadang) Bukittinggi

Jam Gadang, which translates to “The Great Clock” in English, was built by the Dutch in 1926.

It has become a major landmark in Bukittinggi, not just because of its location in the town square, but because of its combination of colonial and traditional Minangkabau design.

The tower is largely made of Dutch architecture, but has a Minangkabau roof, symbolising the unity of two nations.

Each day, Jam Gadang is surrounded by little stalls selling everything from street food to souvenirs.

The around the clock is always lively and vibrant.

5. See The Japanese Bunker Bukittinggi / Lubang Jepang (Japanese Caves)

entrance to japanese cave
Japanese Cave

The Japanese Bunker, also known as Lubang Jepang (Japanese Caves in English), is a network of underground bunkers and tunnels built inside caves during World War II.

The tunnels provided protection for the occupying army and were built throughout 1942-1944.

They were discovered in the early 1950s and became a tourist attraction in 1994.

You can walk through the hiding tunnels, see the meeting rooms, and then visit Panorama Park after for incredible views of the city.

6. Visit Nagari Sijunjung, A Local Village

The Rumah Gadang Museum

Located a 3 hour drive away is the traditional settlement of Nagari Sijunjung, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The village is only made up of 76 houses, which are inhabited by 9 clans and built using Minangkabau architecture, plus a meeting hall known as a Rumah Gadang.

The village is surrounded by paddy fields and plantations, as well as mosques and a school, and small market.

It doesn’t take long to walk around the village, but it’s a wonderful example of Indonesian heritage that has been well preserved and looked after.

7. Travel Around in Horse and Cart

Bukittinggi is a remote city and is only accessible by road, and what makes it unique is that it still adopts a traditional horse-cart method to get around.

While cars and scooters are used in the city, you can also get a Bendi (horse and cart) in limited places in the city.

You will find horse carriages around Jam Gadang Square, but make sure to negotiate a price before you ride.

8. Visit Museum Rumah Kelahiran Bung Hatta (Museum of Bung Hatta Birthplace)

You can learn about the life and legacy of the Indonesian founding father, Mohammad Hatta, in a living museum inside the home in which he was born.

The house was built in the 1860s using a wooden structure. It has the main house, and a pavilion, rice barn, kitchen, horse stables and fish pond outside.

The pavilion was once used as Bung Hatta’s bedroom.

If you want to learn more about Bung Hatta, located next to Jam Gadang Square is The Palace of Bung Hatta, where he lived during his vice presidency. It has now been turned into a five star hotel.

Where to Stay in Bukittinggi

Bukittinggi has plenty of accommodation options, whether you want to stay in a five star hotel or camp in an eco-resort.

Being surrounded by hillsides and jungle, it’s only fitting that you stay somewhere that embodies the landscape that surrounds you.

The Padi Ecolodge is just a 20-minute walk from the town center and boasts these lovely rooms overlooking a garden.

Don’t let the idea of staying in an eco lodge put you off, it has all the mod-cons you need to be comfortable, such as private bathrooms and mosquito nets.

You don’t need A/C since you’re so high up. Some rooms have private balconies too!

How to Get to Bukittinggi

To get to Bukittinggi, you must first fly into Minangkabau International Airport in Padang.

From here, you can then take a taxi or a bus to Bukittinggi, which is about a 2-hour drive away.

Alternatively, you can take a bus or a minivan from other cities in Sumatra, such as Medan or Pekanbaru, to Bukittinggi.

Final Thoughts

We arrived in Bukittinggi intending to stay for a couple of nights, but stayed for 2 weeks as we were drawn into a romance with this matriarchal Muslim community.

The workers at our little hideaway hostel loved serving us our favourite Indonesian tea sweetened with condensed milk during the day, and smuggled bottles of whiskey at night.

Each day we arrived for breakfast, they had a new adventured planned to encourage us to stay.

When, after our two day stay in the Bukittinggi area turned to two weeks, we decided that we could not handle another sweet tea and dragged ourselves away to the nearest bus station.

It was the first of many painful goodbyes I would soon have along the travelling road. I just wanted our Indonesian explorer friend Arlen to come along with us.

I wrapped him up in a bubble and placed him in the special memories box in my heart, knowing that way I could keep all he had taught me and all the fun we shared forever safely in there.

Time then, could never destroy that which was once so great.

More Indonesia Travel Tips

Have you ever met anyone as cool as Arlen on your travels? What did you learn and how did you let them go?

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