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I LOVE Port Macquarie.
This post could start and finish with that sentence.
But, I know that you need more. Port Macquarie has snuck its way into my list of places I could live around the world.
It’s not bright city lights. It’s not South East Asian beaches or southern hospitality.
But there’s an energy here that I get and aligns with my spirit.
What surprised me was how I haven’t often really heard of Port as being a great big surfer town. Pumping surf was at every beach that appeared around the coastal walk bend. Nice, clean breaks of at least 3-4 feet and busy with surfers sharing the waves.
At least in Port there wouldn’t be the hustle for waves as you would see in the busy Sydney beaches, or at Byron Bay or Alexander Headland on the Sunshine Coast, where we once lived.
Along the boardwalk, bordered by brightly painted rocks from people like Adam and Sue who just got married or the tribe of friends visiting from Umina was a boogie board statue claiming Port as the boogie board capital of Australia.
We noticed this at sunset when tribes of boogie boarders paddled across the channel that we were convinced harboured sharks. Obviously the locals did not feel the same and we were just not made of the surfers’ spirit who never thinks of such things–only how they can get to that beach on the opposite side of the river to the wicked surf without having to drive along the land for a good half an hour.
The surf wasn’t the only surprise we discovered along the 8km coastal walk from Town Beach to Tacking Point Lighthouse. Small inlets bordered by rocky headlands lead you to the flatter and wider expanse of Shelley Beach, through the protected Sea Nature reserve and down to the wild and rough pounding waves of Lighthouse Beach.
The walk is spectacular and peaceful and almost empty, the odd local passing you buy with a smile and a friendly yelp of their collared puppy. The winter warmth was warming all our spirits.
With two small children walking the entire length was not the smartest thing for us to do so we chose a small section. The area that included the Sea Acres Rainforest where we stopped for a coffee and some macadamia and coconut bread.
We hesitated between continuing on the walk or heading back to town. The rocky path was a little tricky to navigate with our stroller. The friendly lady at the centre suggested we leave the stroller with her and walk just a small section through the coastal reserve to the look out, a place she said was quite spectacular.
Surprises yet again were in store for us. Kalyra and I chased each other up the rocky path, stopping to admire the views and catch our breath. We reached the looking point and were almost pushed back from the blustery gale.
As we were preparing for our photos a couple sitting admiring the view shouted for us to look at the dolphins in front of us. Pods of them. And I mean pods. There were scores of dolphins diving below the water for food and playing in the surf, riding the odd wave and jumping out of the water for a show. (We saw more the next evening playing in front of the boat in the river close to shore.)
Oh yes I love Port.
Who would have thought sunsets on the East Coast could hold such magic? Most of them slip by unnoticed beyond the mountains or the city skyscrapers.
Sunsets here set the sky alight as it dipped below the mountain on the banks of the river. People of all shapes and sizes sat on the coloured rocks with glasses of wine, or in the beer garden of the Royal Hotel enjoying a jug of $10 beer to wash it down with.
Yes. $10 jugs of beer. Surprising fact no 29 about Port Macquarie and even more reason to love it. You’d be lucky to buy two beers for this price in Australia and here in they were in the best spot in Port, where live acoustic guitarists sing to you, or DJ’s spin their chilled out Sunday session tunes, with the sun blazing up the sky in front of you and lighting the earth in a final goodnight.
From the end of the break wall, to the garden of restaurants, to the quieter grassy knoll, and viewing points on the small inlet beaches the sun setting will add magic to your stay in Port Macquarie.
On the outskirts of Port lie many things waiting for you to explore. Vineyards, breweries and Ricardoe’s Tomatoes, a place where you can have a fresh and tasty lunch followed by a strawberry picking expedition in their hydroponic strawberry farms. The tomatoes are obviously fresh and good.
There are more beaches to explore and a hinterland with waterfalls and rainforest hiking trails and horse riding adventures.
If you’re a family you’ll love it. There are plenty of parks and activities you can do to keep the kids happy and have that memorable family holiday you crave. If you’re a backpacker, you’ll find the perfect local Australian experience at much cheaper prices, without the crowds. If you are surfer then don’t forget your flippers to swim across that channel, this place is your haven. I couldn’t recommend it highly enough for any type of traveller.
I usually reach the end of a holiday and feel sadness at having to leave. That feeling has intensified having to leave Port. I’m already thinking of property prices and the fact that its only 5 hours from Sydney which is not too far should we have to come back for important work appointments or to see family.
I think Port and I understand each other really well.
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