A bucket list of Colorado tips and highlights

Colorado is my fave! We just moved from there to RV full-time. On top of the things already on your list, I recommend:

– Camping at Twin Lakes (right on the lake, not at one of the other nearby campgrounds)
– Mountain Biking in Fruita, CO (It is world-known mountain biking)
– Great Sand Dunes National Park
– Mesa Verde National Park
– Telluride, Ouray, Silverton area
– Colorado National Monument

My Colorado five cents.

Places are listed from north to south in no particular order (* means must see or do):

North of I-70

Most of the roads leading west anywhere from Fort Collins to Pueblo (I-25 corridor) are very picturesque as soon as they hit mountains;
Dinosaur NM;
Mountain lakes and forests north of Steamboat (good for camping and fishing);
* Rocky Mountain NP (wildlife watching, hiking), allow at least two-three days, preferably more. Estes park is a good starting point for the NP exploration, plenty of tourist staff there, good for kids;
Plenty of goof hikes are along Rts. 7 and 72 south of Estes park and along Rt. 119 south of Netherland;
* Best dining in Boulder is “The Kitchen”. Do not miss it. Nearly as good are “L’Atelier” and “Riff’s Urban Fair”, They are all on the same walking street (Pearl Street). Personally I also like Dushanbe Teahouse for rather rare at USA Central Asia ambience.
* Trappers Lake (camping – both tents and cabin, hot showers available for small fee, hiking and fishing for cut-throat and other native trouts), allow two-three days minimum if you like remote locations in the middle of nowhere;
* Flat Top Mountains (about 20 km west of Yampa on FR 7, near Bear lakes). This is one of my favorite places of Colorado for some relaxing hiking. Unless you do famous Devil’s Staircase trail, terrain is relatively flat here (for mountains), and the places are at its best in wildflower season (end of June – end of July). Choice of lodging is limited and are not in the very vicinity of hiking areas, primitive camping is free, but on a first come/first serve basis. The places are pretty popular with “those who understand”, so do your research aforehead and come prepared.

South of I-70

Breckenridge area:
– Do alpine rollercoaster or super-slide (good for children). It is on the slopes near gondola.
– Frisbee golf on the mountain slopes (available summertime at most ski resorts in Colorado). Better bring you own frisbees, though, cause rentals aren’t always available.
– McCullough Gulch or Monte-Cristo creek. Both are accessible via gravel roads. Access is about 6 miles drive south of Breckenridge on Rt.9 (one mile past Blue River), then few miles west from here up Rd. 851 to McCullough Gulch or Rd.
– 850 to Monte-Cristo creek and Blue Lake. Hike up the creeks. Waterfalls. Scenic.
* – Bristlecone pines. It is again south on Rt.9 (about 10 miles toward Alma), then about 6-7 miles west from here, on Rt. 8, as I recall. Follow signs. Hiking. Impressive.
* – Moscuito pass. Scenic. Drive Rt. 9 south to Alma, then west on Rt.12 (gravel) for as long as you can, preferably to the big old abandoned mine (new London Mine, my guess). If your 4WD vehicle is good, you are a good driver and the road is in OK condition, you may get all the way across the pass to Leadville along the Rt.12. and then return to Breckenridge via Rt.91 (it is a very scenic road with many hiking options along it. Operational copper mine above Copper Mountain resort is very impressive, too) and I-70.

*- Raft Arkansas, Colorado, Eagle, Clear Creek or Blue rivers. Many outfitters that run this rivers are well within one-two hours drive from Denver. Check outfitters reviews before going. Colorado river may be pretty murky anytime, but winter.
Arkansas and Eagle rivers usually has a clear(er) waters during summer. Clear Creek and Blue rivers are usually nice blue (and the coldest). Blue river is for novices. Arkansas and Eagle may be much more interesting. However, for that reason Arkansas is usually totally overcrowded with rafters at any location.
– Arapahoe basin ski area may be open for skiing till late June. Good opportunity to ski in your swimsuits there.
– You may book a tour at any of old or operative gold, copper or other mines throughout the area. Leadville has a good mining history museum.
* – Drive up Mt. Evans. Panoramas from there are gorgeous (better, then those from much more popular Pikes Peak). In summer it is usually a good opportunity to see mountain goats here in numbers. Bring binoculars.
– Gore creek trail. Access from Vail pass summit (I-70). Can be combined with visit to Vail for lunch or dinner (Higher rated by Yelp restaurants in Vail better should be reserved well in advance even in summer).
– Missoury lakes trail. It is less visited trail, one of many in this particular wilderness area between Vail and Aspen. A lot of marmots are here in summer.
* – Independent pass (mountain pass between Leadville and Aspen). Scenic drive. Many hiking trails from the summit and on both sides of the pass. Full day driving loop can be done if you proceed via the pass to Aspen (gondola ride up the Aspen mountain there may be fun), then to Steamboat (may get to a hot springs spa there.
* – Maroon Bells trails. Very scenic, about 10 miles from Aspen. Allow whole day if you want to hike to upper lakes. Midday access is limited for private cars (drive in by your own car is either very early (before 8am) or very late (after 4 (?) pm) in the day, shuttle buses from Aspen runs regularly between this hours).
* – Hanging Lake trail (right off I-70 between Gypsum and Glenwood Springs). Lost creek loop trail (part of it, at least). Very scenic, but difficult climb.
* – Royal Gorge Bridge. Gorgeous, but rather touristy destination. May be combined with Arkansas river rafting trip. Or, alternatively, may be combined with a loop drive via Colorado Springs.
* – Colorado Springs Garden of Gods NP is a very scenic must to visit destination.
– Pikes peak scenic drive is nice, but not overwhelmingly impressive, though (in my view). Beware of altitude sickness on top.
– US AirForce Academy Chapel is also fun to visit.
* – Good places to eat are numerous at Manitou Springs near Colorado Springs. Do not miss free mineral water springs at Manitou Springs, a lot of free water wells are throughout the town. Also the town was right by the epicenter of great Colorado fire of Y2013 (escaped miraculously untouched).
* – Black Canyon of Gunnison NP. Scenic canyon, some scenic sections of the roads. Must see. Southern access is more scenic, in my view.
* – Really good summer concerts are performed each summer in Central City, Co. Check schedules.
* – Colorado National Monument near Grand Junction. Must see (actually, must drive scenic road). Don’t miss a chance to buy famous Grand Junction cherries in season (June-July) at town markets.
– Grand Mesa National Recreational area. Nice cluster of alpine lakes, good for hiking and camping, in summer provides a cool oasis for relaxing and enjoying an open conifer forest environment.
– Drive from Carbondale to Crested Butte is pretty scenic, doable in 2WD, but in a bad weather I would suggest to do it in 4WD;
* – drive to tiny city of Marble. Operational marble quarry up the mountain is closed for visitors now (it was open 10 years ago), but vast collection of nice (and huge in size) white marbles can be seen there (to get to it, turn right in Marble as soon as you see the sign to the quarry, marbles are on the right bank of the river, before bridge);
– if you have a really good 4WD and you are an excellent driver, you may drive all the way up the Rt.3 through the Marble to extremely picturesque Crystal Mill (said to be one of the most picturesque settings in whole USA). I have tried to do the road in regular Jeep Cherokee and chickened out just few miles from destination;
* – Telluride is a nice town to spend few days (or weeks) in, any season. Obvious attractions, like waterfall, hikes, etc. are numerous. Ski lifts run year round, so better stay at upper village (connected with lower village by ski lift);
– Ophir Mountain Pass is a very picturesque and not overly difficult off-road. It is suitable for most regular 4WD cars. However, the road is not for those who is afraid of height. It is class 1-2 4WD Mountain pass, I did it both ways and like it more when driving from east to west;
– Ouray is a nice mountain resort village, known for it’s radon pools. Very picturesque location, but can be overcrowded at peak summer months;
* – Silverton is famous for its 4WD mountain roads and numerous miners ghost towns. Some of them are relatively well preserved. Hikes up to alpine lakes are really impressive (you can actually drive to some of the alpine lakes via regular gravel road). I would highly recommend to check this excellent book about Colorado back roads http://www.amazon.com/Colorado-Backroads-4-Wheel-Drive-Trails-Edition/dp/1934838047 if you plan to see real Colorado, not the touristy one;
– The quadrangle between Pagosa Springs, South Fork, Lake City and Durango is pretty untouched by humans (except remnants of old mining hubs), has many gravel roads and is very picturesque;
– Rio Grande river headwaters are pretty scenic, it can be easily accessed from north via Lake City or from east via South Fork (nice B&B called Arbor House in South Fork, would highly recommend);
* – Mesa Verde is obviously a must see destination. Keep in mind, that the area is closed in winter due to its high altitude and may be closed in summer due to fires, so plan accordingly;
* – Great Sand Dunes NP. Absolutely wonderful place, highest sand dunes in USA (sandboarding is popular here, boards can be purchased on place), in spring and early summer small creek by the dunes is not run dry and looks extremely nice. Choice of lodgings is limited. Camping is OK, but I’d suggest staying at Great Sand Dunes Lodge here (book in advance, it is the only lodging nearby). For really adventurous, class 2 mountain pass road goes east of the place and is very funny to drive. If you are not familiar with 4WD mountain pass classification, here it is: There are difficulty levels classed 1 through 10, where 10 means your car has 100% chance of overturning, and 1 means you have just 10% chances of being overturned. I did some of the passes (including this one) and will tell for sure that anything above class 2 is not for a normal human, but for an absolute adrenaline rushers.

Few words about Colorado ski resorts:

I think I did ski every (or most) ski resorts in that state and is happy to share my impressions. If you are not prone to altitude sickness, it is plenty of really nice slopes to choose from in the state. Just keep in mind that base (!) elevations for most skiable areas are at or above 2,500 meters. Due to that, as I am getting more and more out of form, skiing in Colorado is not as much fun as it was when I was younger.
As for resorts, most people prefer Vail. I am not. It has really nice slopes facing away from interstate I-75, but to get to it you have to use at least two (actually three) ski lifts and do a lot of slope traversing, which is not always funny, cause winds may be really treacherous there.
My favorite ski areas in the state are Winter Park, Snowmass, Telluride, Breckenridge and Copper Mountain, in that exact order. Winter Park and Telluride, being world-class large resorts, strangely provide some sense of coziness and you feel there like at home (never felt that in Vail). Snowmass and Breckenridge have probably the best infrastructure and logistic from all Colorado resorts and the best choice of ski-in/ski-out accommodations. Copper Mountain is extremely conveniently located and slopes are very easy to navigate. On pair with Copper Mountain is Keystone Resort, ski-slope mountain views here are nearly as good as in Winter Park. Beaver Creek is similar to Vail, (good trails are long lift rides away from the base, nearby slopes are very steep and may be icy). Loveland Pass and Arapahoe Basin are for late season skiing; slopes are pretty steep at both resorts. Eldora is a small and easy resort closest to Boulder, and is very nice during middays (avoid it on weekends, same is true for Vail, Keystone, Breckenridge, Loveland and Copper Mountain). Other notable resorts are Monarch Pass (one day is enough to ski it through), Steamboat Springs (very nice resort in term of slopes but is on permanent renovation for nearly 25 years now; seems that it dilapidates faster, than grows), Crested Butte (nice place, but far away from everything, rich people now like it even more, than Aspen), Aspen (cheeky, fur-coat skiing, very steep slopes, and not many of them), Aspen Highlands (good for one day ski trip, can be combined with Snowmass and Aspen, though), Durango and Powderhorn are small local resorts with unpredictable snow.

Hope that helps.

I’d like to give you more info about your upcoming trip, but starting this weekend for the next three months I am in Australia (!) and not sure how good Internet access will be there on West and North Coasts, where I’ll spend good half of the trip. Please, don’t hesitate to E-mail me, I hope to be able to check my mails more or less regularly.
Happy travel,
Ivan

We loved camping and exploring Great Sand Dunes National Park.
Head west from there and stop at Pagosa Springs for a soak in their hot springs. Even farther west from there is Mesa Verde National Park with excellent camping. Head north and camp near Telluride. You can ride the free gondola. In the summer they have an outdoor jazz festival. Colorado National monument is also a beautiful place to camp.

I’m a Colorado native of over 30 years and am thrilled you’ll be visiting – it’s a truly special place. You should definitely check out the Western Slope, particularly the area around Paonia. My wife and I were married there and fell in love with the town and the area. It’s known for fruit orchards and wineries and is considered Colorado’s farm-to-table capital. There are some outstanding but unassuming restaurants here. The most beautiful drive of my life was over McClure pass (connects Carbondale to Paonia) as the aspens were changing. See if you can time your trip here for late September to mid October 🙂

Definitely take a dip in the hot springs in Colorado!

I don’t have any tips to share but I appreciate this post; definitely some good ideas to look into when I have the chance!

We hope you will add whitewater rafting to the bucket list and join us for an adventure!

We came for a visit & are now moving to Colorado! Our fav place to visit is Steamboat Springs natural Hot Springs. Beautiful scenery & peaceful environment.

Interpretive Paint Mines in Calhan Co. Absolutely beautiful. Only 4 miles of trail but you get to see all of the beautiful colors of clay and get amazing views of the rock formations up close along with the views of the mountains in the distance. We went on our fist hike there and it wonderful we watched a big storm system form in the distant mountains and watched it roll in before we decided it was getting too close and left.